A second trunk can be started by leaving a short spur at the base of the vine, just above the graft union on grafted vines, or just above ground level on own-rooted vines. In Year Two, crop should be limited by cluster thinning or de-fruiting in order to encourage vegetative growth.
Year Three. Single cane can be pruned and trained in each direction from the head of the vine for cane-pruned systems right side of diagram , or, spur-pruned cordons can be retained for spur-pruned systems left side diagram.
In either case, three to five buds are retained per foot of row for example, 18 to 30 buds are retained on vines spaced six feet apart within the row. Where possible, shoots emerging from cane growth below the fruiting wire should be removed to avoid overcrowding and shading at the head of the vine, but on cane-pruned systems, one or two shoots should be retained below the fruiting wire as renewal canes for the subsequent year's growth.
During the growing season, shoots are manually "tucked" or shoot positioned between the sets of catch wires. Shoots that emerge through the top set of catch wires are summer pruned to encourage upright growth and minimize the shading at the fruiting zone. Third year vines should yield between one-half and a full crop, depending on the amount of trellis fill achieved.
Vines that achieve full trellis fill can be fully cropped as appropriate for the variety and desired wine quality attributes , while weaker vines may require some fruit removal by cluster thinning so that vines are not over-cropped. Year Four and Beyond. Canes or cordons should be fully established and annual growth should fill the available trellis space.
Consider whether tall trees or shrubs will block windows or interfere with the roof or power lines. To prepare the planting area dig a hole as deep as the root ball and three times as wide. After removing the soil, mix it with some compost or peat moss. This enriches the soil and loosens the existing dirt so that new roots can spread easily. To remove the plant from the container, gently brace the base of the plant, tip it sideways and tap the outside of the pot to loosen. Rotate the container and continue to tap, loosening the soil until the plant pulls smoothly from the pot.
The container can also be removed by carefully cutting it down the side. Set the plant in the hole. If the root ball is wrapped in burlap fabric this must now be removed along with any string or wire securing the burlap.
If roots are tightly packed gently rake them apart with your fingers. Return the soil to the planting area packing it firmly around the root ball. Fill the hole until the soil line is just at the base of the plant, where the roots begin to flare out from the main stem. Depending on rainfall, new plants need to be watered weekly through the first growing season. A slow, one-hour trickle of water should do the job. Deep watering encourages roots to grow further into the ground resulting in a sturdier plant with more drought tolerance.
To check for soil moisture use your finger or a hand trowel to dig a small hole and examine the soil. Monitor new plants through the first two years to make sure they are getting the moisture they need. After that they should be sturdy enough to survive on their own. Established trees should be fertilized every years. Feed in early spring when plants start growing.
Fertilizers are available in many forms: granulated, slow-release, liquid feeds, organic or synthetic. This water-soluble fertilizer is great for in-ground or in-container growing. Related Products Electronic Gift Card. Zinfandel Wine Grape Vine. Zinfandel wine grapevines are highly adaptable to a wide variety of wine styles from Bold full-bodied dry wines, to delicate light-bodied wines, and even sweet late harvest wines. Also known as Primitivo.
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